A more conventional style of wine from vineyards just south of the French border is well worth joining the Wine Society for just to get hold of it.
Verd’ Albera DO Empordà comes from a region that, like Rueda, has flirted with the appeal of growing well-known international varieties like Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Merlot to make wines that are never likely to take the world by storm.
This wine, however, made by a family who has roots in the area going back to the 12th Century, is a blend of white Grenache with a little Muscat, both firmly traditional to the area and all the better for it. It’s a wonderful discovery.
Peachy with just a little saltiness is exploded in the mouth with intense spicyflavours, before ending with another savoury, salty twist. It cries out to be enjoyed with simply grilled fish, like bass or sea-bream.
Lifetime membership of the Wine Society costs just £40, a sound investment if ever there was one (www.thewinesociety.com). Wine from Spanish Spirit can be ordered online (www.spanishspirit.com) or by phone on 01661 834933.
WINE EXTRAS
IF YOU’D like to get to know top-quality Spanish white wines better, the Wine Society offers two discovery cases.
Spanish New Whites (£49) contains the three wines I tasted, plus three others and The Case for Galicia (£65) features six different wines from the North West.
Nearer to home, I warmly recommend the other two examples of Verdejo from Spanish Spirit. Tamaral Verdejo, D.O. Rueda, 2009 (£7.99) has a scent of ripe lemons with a dash of orange and is a little tangier than most, though less mineral – it’s very refreshing.
Enebral, Verdejo, DO.O. Toro 2009 (£9.99) comes from a region just to the west of Rueda, more famous for its powerful red wines.
This, though, is a fine Verdejo with a lemony, ice-cream soda aroma, a dusting of spice and a lingering, salty aftertaste. It’s extremely food friendly. I’d be tempted to partner it with squid in a garlicy sauce.
WINE OF THE WEEK
Javier Sanz, Villa Narcisa, D.O. Rueda, 2009, £9.99 Spanish Spirit
Verdejo doesn’t get better than this super dry white from Spain, which smells of orange blossom and has a clean, grapey taste that’s citrus but soft, and is rounded off by a lingering savoury, salty finish. Try it with sheep’s or goat’s cheese.
